The Matcha Boom: What I Saw in Japan, What I Think It Means.

The Matcha Boom: What I Saw in Japan, What I Think It Means.

September 12, 2025
By Becci Fowler

I own a tea company — and a couple of weeks ago I went to Japan. Since then, I’ve lost count of how many times someone has asked me, "So… how’s the matcha craze? Do you have matcha?" And honestly? I usually just blink at them, wide-eyed, not knowing where to even begin.

So if you’re one of those people — or just someone who’s genuinely curious — this is for you. Here’s what I saw, what I learned, and what I think it all means.

It also happened to be Ichibancha season — the first and most celebrated tea harvest of the year. 'Ichibancha' means 'first tea,' and it refers to the first flush of new spring growth. These tender young leaves are the most nutrient-rich and flavourful of the entire year. During this time, Japan’s tea fields are buzzing with activity, as producers harvest leaves for premium teas like matcha, sencha, gyokuro, and shincha. These early-season teas are prized for their rich flavour and well-known health benefits.

For me, this trip was about more than just sourcing — it was a chance to reconnect with the roots of my business. I needed to get away from the spreadsheets and logistics, and get back to what made me fall in love with tea in the first place: the people, the land, and the process. I just needed to get out of the daily grind and away from the endless to-do lists — to stand on the land, talk with the people who grow the tea, and remember why I started this whole thing in the first place.

I spent time in Wazuka, a small tea-farming town in the hills of Kyoto and part of the traditional Uji tea–growing region. I met farmers right where they were working, saw firsthand how the tea’s grown and handled, and had honest conversations about the changes they’re facing. Then I headed to Shizuoka to meet more producers, and honestly, the message was the same — the pressure’s mounting, and the future’s feeling pretty uncertain.

Matcha Mania & Market Pressure

You’ve no doubt seen the matcha mania sweeping through cafes, wellness routines, and social feeds. To meet rising global demand, the Japanese government is encouraging more farmers to grow tencha — the leaf used to make matcha. Yet, tencha still makes up less than 5% of Japan’s total tea production, with most farms continuing to grow aracha, the raw tea that becomes sencha, hōjicha, and other varieties.

The shift toward tencha isn’t simple. It requires more labour, specialised shading methods, and careful processing — all at a time when rural labour is scarce and expensive. During my visit, I saw firsthand how farmers are quietly adjusting to this pressure. Some are reconsidering crops they’ve grown for generations, and some are holding firm — but all are aware of the change.

And this raises a hard question: what if matcha’s popularity fades? If too much land is converted to matcha and the market shifts, farmers could be left without a safety net. We risk losing not just supply diversity, but the cultural and ecological richness that defines Japanese tea.

Ageing Farmers & Shifting Generations

The average Japanese tea farmer is now over 65. Their children and grandchildren — those from Gen X, Gen Y (Millennials), and Gen Z — are increasingly choosing city life. And it’s hard to blame them: covering tea bushes by hand, maintaining heavy nets in the humid heat, and relying on the unpredictability of nature is physically demanding, often undervalued work.

When the alternative is a salaried office job in Tokyo with climate control, career progression, and social perks, traditional tea farming simply isn’t appealing. The hard truth? If these generations don’t return to the land, these centuries-old methods and knowledge could disappear within one lifetime.

Climate Change Is Already Here

Rising temperatures, unpredictable seasons, and increased rainfall are changing the very flavour, yield, and health of Japan’s tea crops. Young shoots are drying out, soil erosion is worsening, and the terroir — once finely balanced — is shifting.

Tea farmers are being asked to adapt: to invest in new technologies or switch to climate-resilient cultivars. But these solutions require time, money, and a level of support many small producers simply don’t have.

Matcha — Are We Using It Respectfully?

Let’s Talk Caffeine
For those trying to reduce their caffeine intake without giving up a gentle lift, here’s a quick comparison:

  • Coffee: ~95–120mg of caffeine per 240ml cup

  • Matcha: ~60–80mg of caffeine per 1g (1 tsp) serving

  • Aracha-based powdered teas (like sencha or genmaicha): ~20–40mg per serving, depending on processing and brewing method

Matcha provides a more sustained energy release thanks to L-theanine, a calming amino acid that helps prevent the jitters and crash often associated with coffee. Aracha-based teas, especially when blended with roasted rice like in genmaicha, offer a very mild and stable caffeine experience — perfect for focus and balance.

You can absolutely enjoy incredible powdered green teas from other countries — China, Korea, and Taiwan among them — and there’s room for all of it. Powdered tea originated in China during the Tang and Song dynasties and inspired what would become Japanese matcha centuries later. But here, we’re talking specifically about traditional ceremonial-grade, stone-ground Japanese matcha — and if that’s what you’re buying, it’s important to understand where the price comes from, why it’s rising, what makes it so special, and how to navigate those costs when that daily post-workout matcha habit starts to add up.

Japanese matcha production involves higher labour costs, stricter quality controls, and a long-standing cultural practice that’s deeply tied to the land and the people who grow it. Japan is also smaller and more limited in terms of available farming land — so supply can only stretch so far. When demand spikes, so does the price.

Ceremonial matcha is meant to be sipped slowly, whisked with water only, and appreciated for its creamy umami, natural sweetness, and beautiful bitterness. Producing it is no small feat: the tea bushes must be shaded for up to 30 days, the tencha leaves carefully harvested, then stone-ground slowly using traditional granite mills.

To give you an idea: it takes one hour to grind just 30–40 grams of matcha using a single stone mill. The process is slow because friction creates heat — and heat damages flavour, colour, and nutrients. The result is a silky, vibrant, flavour-rich powder — perfect for ceremonial use.

So, if you're looking for a pure, traditional matcha experience, go for stone-ground ceremonial matcha, and be prepared to pay for it. It's not just tea — it's a slow, hands-on process with centuries of knowledge behind it.

While matcha still deserves to be savoured as the beautiful drink it is, the way you plan to use it really matters. If you're whisking it properly, enjoying it for what it is, then yes — invest in the good stuff. But if it’s going in a latte, smoothie, or dessert — with milk, syrups, or whatever — that’s where a premium culinary-grade or machine-ground 'ceremonial' matcha makes more sense. It’s more affordable and still gives you a great result without wasting the high-end gear.

The Beauty of Hōjicha (ho-jee-cha) & Genmaich (gen-my-cha)

While matcha is having its moment, two other teas completely stole my heart in Japan: hōjicha and genmaicha. They’re deeply tied to everyday Japanese life and happen to be perfect for lattes — both flavour-wise and culturally.

Hōjicha (ho-jee-cha)
Flavour: Roasty, nutty, smoky-sweet with a caramel warmth.
Benefits: Naturally low in caffeine (great for afternoons and evenings), high in calming L-theanine, and soothing on the stomach. Can help reduce anxiety and promote better sleep.
Best For: Milk-based drinks, iced or hot. Tastes like comfort in a cup.

Genmaicha (gen-my-cha)
Flavour: Fresh green tea mixed with roasted brown rice — slightly grassy, warm, and toasty with a popcorn-like finish.
Benefits: High in antioxidants, low in caffeine, and supports digestion. The combination of green tea and roasted rice provides a balanced energy release, making it ideal for focus without the jitters.
Best For: Genmaicha lattes are buttery, nutty and endlessly drinkable — a beautiful bridge between green tea and comfort drinks.

By choosing hōjicha or genmaicha lattes, we can reduce pressure on matcha fields, support more types of tea production, and honour the full breadth of Japanese tea culture — not just the trend. At the same time, we’re giving our bodies gentler, more grounding options — teas that calm the mind, support digestion, and provide antioxidant benefits without overstimulation.

Where We’re Going

This trip reshaped everything for me — how I source, how I share, and how I lead this brand.

And while I don’t have all the answers, I’m always looking. Always asking how we can do better at The Tea Collective — with what’s available to us, with respect for tradition, and with care for our community and planet.

So here’s what you can expect from us:

  • More education about tea types, quality, and preparation

  • Better transparency about when and why to use ceremonial-grade matcha

  • A spotlight on hojicha and genmaicha as not just alternatives, but stars in their own right

  • Sustainable, respectful sourcing that supports small farmers and honours tradition

We’re here to celebrate tea in all its forms — not just what’s trending, but what’s timeless.

Thank you for walking this path with us.

Becci and the amazing TTC team who held the fort while I was away x